Zakopane
The capital of the Polish mountains, Zakopane, has always been high on my dream list, but something always got in the way of such a trip. A week before the planned departure, my unlucky dive into the water led to a cervical spine fracture. For many years afterward, I didn't even think I'd ever see the Tatra Mountains. I couldn't imagine finding people willing to devote at least three days to selfless help. I was also concerned about whether I could physically handle such a long and distant journey.
A New Perspective After FAR Workshops
A shift in my outlook on life came from attending at the Active Rehabilitation Foundation camp. Ten days spent in Zielona Góra opened me up to new challenges and gave me the courage to pursue my dream of a trip to Zakopane. When friends suggested a group trip, I agreed without hesitation, choosing Zakopane as our destination.
Planning the Zakopane Trip – Accommodation
We started our trip to Zakopane by looking for accommodations accessible for people with disabilities. Finding such a place in Zakopane isn't easy. A hotel at 280 PLN per night was our backup option, but after several calls, we found guest rooms at "U Babci." The primary reason for choosing this place was the price of 60 PLN per night, including a delicious breakfast, as we later found out. The only barrier was a 20-centimeter step, which my friends helped me overcome without any problem.
Kasprowy Wierch and Morskie Oko
While in Zakopane, I decided to visit Kasprowy Wierch and Morskie Oko, knowing these places are wheelchair accessible.
We booked tickets for the gondola lift through a travel agency (100 PLN per person), and the guesthouse owner informed us that it's possible to drive a private car to the largest lake in the Valley of Five Lakes. I contacted Tatra National Park, and after completing the necessary formalities and paying 80 PLN, I received permission to drive up to Morskie Oko.
First Day in Zakopane – Krupówki and Gubałówka
The journey from Legnica to Zakopane (427 km) took us six hours without any issues. After settling in and resting for an hour, we headed to Krupówki – Zakopane's main pedestrian street. For the first time, I tried fresh oscypek cheese with cranberry sauce and lamb sauerkraut soup, accompanied by a highland band. After this delicious meal, we continued walking and reached the Gubałówka funicular. We unanimously decided to ride to the top, especially since the funicular is wheelchair accessible and the ride takes only about three minutes.
Gubałówka greeted us with calm weather and a magnificent view of Zakopane and the Tatra panorama. We arrived at the top around 7 p.m., and since there weren't many other tourists, we could enjoy the beauty of nature in peace.
The Cable Car to Kasprowy Wierch
The next day started with rather cloudy weather. After a delicious omelet, we drove to Kuźnice, where the lower station of the cable car to Kasprowy Wierch is located. Thanks to having a parking card, we parked right near the station. With little time before our ride, we chose a steep wheelchair ramp leading directly to the entrance. We later learned that asking the staff would have directed us to an easier path. Though we were a few minutes late, they made no fuss and transported me by elevator to the boarding level.
The cable ride was amazing. It was my first time seeing tall mountains with steep slopes and peaks over 2,000 meters above sea level. Despite the less-than-ideal weather, we could still appreciate the beauty of the route to Kasprowy Wierch. Upon reaching the peak (1,987 m.a.s.l.), we were greeted by rain with brief clearings, giving us the chance to enjoy the expansive views and see Poland's highest meteorological observatory. After two hours, we rode down, this time in pouring rain. We returned to the guesthouse to rest and recharge for the next excursion to Morskie Oko.
Morskie Oko
Palenica Białczańska is a meadow in the High Tatras, about 20 km from Zakopane, and a popular starting point for the beautiful lake in the Valley of Five Lakes, Morskie Oko. This is also the endpoint for buses, minibuses, and horse-drawn carts. From there, it's about 8 km to Morskie Oko. The road is paved and mostly uphill, making wheelchair pushing arduous. That's why we secured permission from TPN to drive a private car up to the lake. Only four permits are issued daily. We succeeded and comfortably reached one of the most beautiful spots in the country. Despite the rainy weather and clouds obscuring the mountain slopes, we all admired the breathtaking setting of this large water body, though we wished we had seen the full panorama under sunny skies. The upside was being able to enjoy the beauty of the Tatras in peace and quiet, a rare occurrence in such a popular spot.
Chochołów Thermal Baths
The third day of our stay in Zakopane greeted us with sunshine and a pleasant breeze. We had planned to return home that day, but my friends wanted to visit the Chochołów Thermal Baths. These pools, located 19 km from Zakopane, are wheelchair accessible. The water temperature is always 36°C, allowing for outdoor bathing even in winter. I hadn't planned on swimming, so I spent two enjoyable hours sunbathing by the pool with a view of Giewont. I was impressed by the size of the facility and regret that there aren't similar pools near my home.
Is a Trip to Zakopane Worth It?
I can undoubtedly call this three-day trip to Zakopane the journey of a lifetime. Since becoming a wheelchair user, I hadn't experienced such beauty and joy as I did on those July days. Changing my approach to many things finally allowed me to fulfill one of my deepest dreams.
I recommend Zakopane to everyone, even those who aren't particularly fond of the mountains. It's worth visiting to experience the unique atmosphere of Krupówki, hear the highlander dialect, and taste the regional delicacies. Despite the long distance to Poland's mountain capital, the experiences in this region will stay with you forever and provide warm memories for a long time.
Accessibility for People with Disabilities
Overall, I am satisfied with the level of accessibility of tourist facilities for people with limited mobility. The only issue is the difficult and unfriendly terrain outside the upper station at Kasprowy Wierch and around the shelter near Morskie Oko. Navigating these areas in a wheelchair was a significant challenge, far from comfortable. A solution could be pathways for wheelchairs, though our decision-makers may not be mentally ready for this yet. Such paths would not detract from the tourist value of these places but would significantly improve the experience for people with disabilities.
